Just checking you dont think I am here? They are rugged very low key for Santoni, with treble leather soles and Norwegian welts, and abosolutely bomb proof.Kitzbuhel is an interesting place for clothes shopping, with hand made shoes from Haderer, tailoring from Prader, and Fraunschuh, who manufacture locally, and curate some lovely Italian clothes. E.g., heavy black winter boots with denim can look great. I would appreciate your thoughts and maybe another recommendation! Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. If were talking about just cordovan in Color 8 colour, then: 1) To an extent, though I think the brown has to be pretty dark Yes, Id say Alden is my preferred brand, though theres some discussion about pluses and minuses of them in the comments above. Interesting read. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. You want to keep them in a dry and clean environment. This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Some like that sturdiness, while some dislike it and have a hard time breaking in corodovan shoes and getting them comfortable due to this, a bit depending on how sensitive your feet are. Do Not use heat to dry wet Shell Cordovan leather. Picture: PatrickBOOTH / StyleForum. I have a bit of a conundrum. They may the second largest producer after Horween. Though, with all the fats in the leather I have never found it necessary to administer shoe cream or polish. But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. Cordovan leather has the tendency to "roll" instead of crease, which many people find more appealing. Every 10 - 15 wearings, apply a light haze of neutral Creme Cordovan or Venetian Cream sparingly. Now, however, they are best described as brown-ish with a slight burgundy tint. Connoisseurs sometimes notice them and appreciatively comment. It states Cordovan on the insole. 3. Do you mind telling if you have same size on Alden shoes on Barrie and Van last and are they the same width? Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. Hi, PS Presents 23: Arterton, LEJ, Marrkt, Fox and Rubato, Click on an image to enlarge. Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. Do they actually do anything? Only spoons dont come with embedded oils. Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. But then, if this works it seems silly to try something else. Hi, Shell cordovan comes from horses and is named after the Spanish region of Cordoba from which the specific leather tradition originates and is derived from the hindquarter of a horse, referred to as the shell. Any thoughts on the Alden Blutcher Plain Toe cordovan shoes? Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. Im not sure if black was the way to go but there was something that kept pulling me to the cordovan 8. On a different topic, that Ecru Shetland that you are wearing in the pictures, is it see through? Brush of dust and buff them, and youre done in 99% of cases. You use colored cream on cordovan shell to keep uniform coloration across the waxes that protect the outer surface. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. But I suppose I should reconsider those options if I really want that flexibility. And they feel lovely for most of the day. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. Fantastic read by the way Simon, thanks for this. Any special way? I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. Yes, I think thats partly the photography. Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). For me the main appeal of shell is the thing thats hardest to capture in photos its the depth and the richness of the colour. Let it slowly come back to health. Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. I was a bit disapointed by the colour of the burgundy Aldens that I received recently. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. Or other reason? A couple questions regarding your statement you never think cordovan is smart enough for a suit. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. No worries. I have covered them a little here, but thats all for the moment, I order this up for clients all the time. The Flash from the camera really lightens up the color, more than they are in real life. Allow to sit at least 10 minutes (my great grandfather insisted on overnight). I've posted this picture a few times over the years and the responses are always very positive. One thing thats certainly true, is that cordovan can be particularly uncomfortable if the shoe is too tight. Again, associations and familiarity. I havent found any to be perfect to be honest, but these from Skolyx are probably the best, particularly if you cut them down (they are quite big) if needed. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215 I seem to recall you wearing black suede shoes with your grey pick-and-pick with the Holland and Sherry cloth. Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. Hi Simon, Crockett & Jones Harvard loafers: Review, Shoes in wet weather: The best ways to prevent rain damage, https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, https://thearmoury.com/products/hudson-tassel-loafer?variant=32131236102215, https://dieworkwear.com/2018/09/06/the-sophisticated-black-tassel/, https://www.paraboot.com/en/men/boat-shoes/barthmarine-marron-america, https://www.brogueshop.com/collections/shell-cordovan-1/products/alden-x-brogue-ruby-hill-boot-1, https://thearmoury.com/products/the-armoury-by-nigel-cabourn-5-pocket-denim-jeans?variant=17728986677319, https://therealmccoys.com/collections/bottoms/products/001xx-washed, this article on shoes with brown trousers. I assumed that you thought about stretching the width of these shoes (and not the length Perhaps you didn`t need to? Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? Also, curious to know how you compare this new pair of Blackhorse Lane jeans after your Levis experience? That said, there is certainly a look with black loafers, which can be too easily dismissed if we just think of that as formal. The color 8 is my favorite but I cant wait to a pair of long wing bluchers in whiskey SC. Good to see that you mention Vass. You recognise the beauty and usefulness of the leather, its just an ethical question for you. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. () I finally ordered the PS watch cap in red, and the rapid despatch and sweetly worded confirmation message already have me convinced it was a great decision to do so. I would say in terms of versatility. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, its not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. Simon, it is a great post. Wanted to see what I should expect with more wearings. last year (shown below). Those are extremely difficult or impossible to repair. boots better. Yes, thats one of the better pros. Cordoba: Thanks! Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. If you want another recommendation, look at the handful that Crocketts have in cordovan. In this case, youd be safer to just do it yourself. Ive only seen the exact style on sale in the US, yes, but that could change it depends what other Alden stockists decide to order. (See link) Im after a pair of loafers that would be very versatile and wanted to get your opinion on the lopez in plum or other color. (Thinkwould set the bar too highIm aware ). Ive been looking at buying some Viberg service boots (similar to the Alden/Red Wing/Wolverine camp but definitely their own little niche of bridging formal and casual) and the shell ones are striking me as the most versatile if denim are my only casual trousers (have never been into chinos). My biggest surprise was finding a pair of Allen Edmonds MacNeil burgundy shell cordovans this summer, in great shape, at my local Goodwill shop for the princely sum of $15! Their lasts are generally pretty wide and accommodating. In your article about your Belgravian loafer, you write, that these shoes are your favorite and most versatile shoes. : Everything. Depending on how wet they are, this may take 24 hours or more, but it is the best method, and will not harm the leather. I tried them on today in size 8 but had a little heel slippage. It benefits hugely from brushing, and from buffing (rubbing). Doing so not only helps get rid of those white streaks, it also . Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. Thank you and much appreciate it! Remember its already pretty oily. Its now been two years since I woke up with Color 8 Shell Cordovan Penny Loafers from Alden on my feet. Id stick with the bigger size and try a half insole or tongue pad. To dry, wipe them with a cloth, install cedar trees, and allow them to air dry at room temperature. I would really appreciate some help here. I am interested in your opinion on Cordovan as a material for monkstrap shoes. edward green) but in towards economic climate, is a decent shoe in terms of quality/price ratio. Id lusted after a pair of shell cordovan shoes for a long time before I was able to get my hands on a pair for myself. I also have a variety of vintage Florsheim Royal Imperial, Bostonian and other US brands purchased at almost bargain prices. Because of my experience in Barrie I ordered the 684 in 7E as well, thinking theyd be somewhere in between my previous two considering the slimmer Aberdeen last. PS.Thanks for the lovely article. It's tough to break in. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. In the winter, I will wipe my shoes with a damp cloth at the end of the day to remove any salt, a Chicago-type climate concern. However; my more (ahem) refined tastes always lean toward something like a Cordovan. Hmm. But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. Plus, the tanning process involved with shell cordovan is more intense than typical leathers, adding another layer of cost. I am really surprised about the off the box fit- I have the same model in suede and it wasnt as good at first, but here I have no noticeable pressure points after using them for some hours around the house. Or did I choose the wrong colour? Both pairs were saddle loafers Is cordovan waterproof even without the coating the Alden adds to it? Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). But, if you dont want to treat your shoes after every encounter with rain, cordovan might not be for you. As Nick Horween told us. 2. I guess my point is: I am happy to pay for calf or suede EG principally because the leathers they use are at the absolute top of the industry (as is their make for GYW shoes) and there is an -in my experience- noticeable difference in how the leather wears from day one and especially how it ages. Currently at 260, I feel like I cant really beat AEs quality at this price point. Ive seen and worn many shoes over the years that were called burgundy, oxblood, or something similar, but I always felt they had nothing to recommend them over black or brown. Hi Simon, I think the classic penny from Alden is on the Van last, not Barrie. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. Designed by Out of the Sandbox. I have a pair of colour 8 Cordovan brogues from Crockett and Jones which are one of my favourite shoes. Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. My experience is different. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Sam: Its due to the material sort of rubbing against itself when creasing, which breaks the surface of the shell. These have been so informative since I found your site about 2 years ago. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. What do you think of cordovan shoes made by UK manufacturers like Crocketts? Thank you. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! Most stock the classic penny, on the Van last, and the US stores arent allowed to ship outside of the country. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? Somewhere between brown and purple and burgundy; simultaneously all and neither of those. and our They have burgundy, dark brown and black Lovely though the Aldens look, the associated hassle and inflated costs of getting them over the pond are significant deterrents for now. This guide for removing scuffs in shell cordovan is a way to expedite the process. The production of Horween's Genuine Shell . Would you agree with f.e. I wouldnt say that Alden is superior in terms of quality. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. Hi Simon, nice to see you moving into this area of things, been a reader for about 8 years now and this is my first time commenting I think. Favorite and most versatile shoes for much longer slimmer last might work.... 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how to lighten shell cordovan